I was surprised when I saw the vineyard. Merlot, over which I struggled to put paper umbrellas last time, had gone through Veraison (a phenological stage during which grapes change their colour), darken and hung heavy off the vine. I was amazed at how quickly they grew in less than 2 months. Living in a busy city, we often forget about the beauty of the great nature like this. But every time I come back to Tomi No Oka and see grapes, birds, insects and the magnificent view, I feel like a kid again.

First, I did sampling to gauge the ripeness of Chardonnay which was ready to harvest. They hand-pick fully ripe Chardonnay one by one, taste them and determine when to harvest them. Of course, they use a sugar refractometer and such to measure sugar content, but it is humans who decide whether or not to issue a pass for them. They analyse not only sugar content or acidity level, but also flavours from the skin. Naturally, the flavour varies depending on the zone and the vine. The taste of grapes is affected by various factors, including vine age, rootstock, soil and climate.

Though coming from the same bunch, some are bigger than others, juicy and sweet and have flavours similar to pears or peaches, and some are smaller than others, have a refreshing, high acidity with a citrus flavour. They are all so distinctively unique and interesting.

After sampling, I went to check other varieties. There are big discoveries every time I visit here. For example, this time I tasted Cabernet Sauvignon being grown by a certain method. They tasted distinctively different from other grapes. They had a good balance between sugar content and acidity, condensed fruitiness, with a hint of spice and herb that gives a depth to the taste. The grapes have a lot of potential and are expected to be very high-quality grapes when the tannins become fully ripe over time.
As shown in the photo, the grapes are cultivated by a special method, called high-bridge cultivation method. In this method, ridges are built at a height of 80 cm above the ground to allow underground water to easily drain away and apply adequate stress to grapes. Cabernet Sauvignon changes their colour and ripe well if water stress is applied to them before they enter the ripening phase. Doing this allows them to harvest grapes earlier than other Sauvignon. This was certainly true, because grapes in the next field were not fully through Veraison, but the grapes grown in the method were all darken (black) in colour.

To explore further opportunities in the environment that is gradually changing due to climate change, etc., Mr. Wada is making every effort to grow various varieties of grapes on a trial basis and see their growth. At the end, he said, “I am bringing dedication and passion to terroir of Tomi No Oka Winery.” It was a very impressive comment.

France and Italy have spent hundreds of years trying to figure out what varieties would suit what climate and soil. Tremendous efforts made by past generations created the rich wine-producing regions. Here at Tomi No Oka Winery, too, a viticulture team led by Mr. Wada is trying out various methods to bring out the maximum potential of the region. “Terroir” is not a word that simply refers to the climate and soil of the region.

I believe there must be “someone” to express it. “Mr. Wada is also a part of this great terroir of Tomi No Oka,” I said in my heart, looking at Mr. Wada who has been making a sincere effort and dedication to the region. I determined myself to try hard to determine what I can do as a sommelier and convey “terroir” to a wider audience.